No Wonder It's A Wonder!

Seriously, I think my head might actually explode. It's just too much awesomeness in too short a period. I might have to take a vacation from my vacation so I can process it all!

Tibor and Bela had heard from another traveler that there is an 'alternate' route to get to the parts of Petra we wanted to see today. Since we had already walked in the 'traditional' way on our first day, we decided to take the tunnel route today. It's basically one long, narrow, mini-sik that makes a rather wide circle out around the town and brings you back right around the middle of the "main road". We figured that it would be a path and relatively easy to navigate. When we got to the opening of it and saw signs warning against going without a guide, perhaps we should have reconsidered but, hey, where's the adventure in that? Turns out they were warning about how rocky it is and that it really shouldn't be attempted without proper hiking shoes (I was wearing, eh hem, flip flops). It was up hills and down hills and up and over rocks and parts where it dropped off so steeply, you had to turn around, hug a big boulder and slide down backwards. In flip-flops.

When we were maybe a quarter of the way in, way past the point of no return, we saw a Bedouin man walking ahead of us, seemingly just out for a stroll, fingering his prayer beads and presumably praying while walking. Seeing him off in the distance, the outline of him in the traditional garb, not another soul in sight (mercifully, not many other tourists take this route, another selling point of it), you could almost imagine what it must have been like to see people walking around and going about their daily business here thousands of years ago. We passed him but then not too long afterwards he passed us again and we noticed he started looking back at us. Yeah, he knew what was coming and he very kindly, without speaking even one word of English, started walking with us and helping us to navigate our way through the rocks and narrow parts and the drop-offs (it was he who demonstrated the slick move of how to turn and hug the rock and slide down backwards). He stayed with us the rest of the way out, showing great concern for me in my stupid flip flops. Funny how much can be communicated without a single word.

It was such an amazing experience to walk through there with him, with not another soul around, not at all a 'touristy' experience but having actual interaction with a kind, helpful local. When we finally made it out the other end, there was a woman and her three young children camping out there. She offered us tea, which at first we declined but as she kept insisting we accepted and sat with them for a while. Again, remarkable what can be communicated without either person speaking the other's language.

It's difficult here sometimes because people are always talking to you, trying to sell you something, paying you ridiculous compliments hoping you will give them something or buy something from them, oftentimes trying to rip you off; after a near-constant barrage of it, you become a little leery of anyone who approaches you for anything and often find it's just easier to keep to yourself because you never know who is trying to rip you off and who is just being nice. It's a shame, because I think it causes you to miss out on a lot of great experiences. It's a constant struggle for me when traveling, desperately wanting to have contact with local people but also wanting to be smart and not be taken advantage of. In the end, this man didn't want anything from us, he didn't try to sell us anything and he didn't have an alterior motive. He just wanted to help out a dumb tourist in flip flops, and he did it out of genuine kindness. It was the coolest moment of my time in Jordan.

After hours hiking the tunnel, we made it out and made our way to the big kahuna of Petra, what had been our ultimate goal during the two days: the Monastery. Of course it couldn't be with the rest of the city. No, no, it had to be on top of the highest hill, up a winding path scattered with 800 (count them, eight-zero-zero) steps. It was a long, brutal trek in the blazing sun and it involved lots of water and shade breaks. I've never heard so much audible panting from so many people in my life. I'm pretty sure that if I had lived in Petra back in the day, I would have been "sick" an awful lot on church days. But we made it. And it was suddenly SO worth it. We had spectacular views both along the way and at the top, both of the Monastery itself and of the city of Petra below. We had lunch up there, reaping the rewards of the long climb and admiring the spectacular view for as long as possible (and, let's be honest, catching our breath).

We started the long, arduous trek back out (just to get back to the main entrance is about a 1.5 - 2 hour walk) as we didn't want to miss the bus back to Amman. Turns out we already had. I will spare you the gory details but what followed involved lost Hungarians, scheming taxi drivers, a city-wide deception, unfounded guilt, lying hoteliers, defense of a principle, a Russian family and a driver named Mohammed. It was a hard-won cultural lesson. And, long story short, we had to take a cab back to Amman without Bela and Tibor.

We reunited in Amman about 5 hours later and decided we needed some hummus and a few drinks to get over the superbly frustrating end to our otherwise superbly perfect day. Amazing how some good food, fun company and a great atmosphere can lift the spirits. We bid a final farewell to the guys and headed off to pack up. Tomorrow I am moving on, again...