We had shaken off the horrors of yesterday's trip, were reinvigorated and excited to be here, fully prepared to spend the whole day today on the beach reaping the rewards of our grueling journey to get here. We woke up to rain. A lot of it. We lingered for the morning, hoping it would stop and clear up. Nope. Since a day on the beach was no longer an option, we figured we might as well make the best use of our time and head into town to try to figure out a better way back to Bangkok (NO way I was going back the way I came!). We found an option that will save us over hal
f the time AND is cheaper to boot. Success! But still grey and still rainy.
f the time AND is cheaper to boot. Success! But still grey and still rainy. So we accepted our plight and spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around town, buying insanely fresh and delicious fruit for pennies, poking through shops, sitting and chatting over drinks and.... you guessed it, getting massages.
But not just any massage, THE massage. The massage to end all massages. I have had a fair number of massages in my day and I have had eight (eight!) to date in Thailand but this was the best one ever. Ever. By chance I got the woman who it turns out has been a Thai massage teacher for 12 years and from the first moment she touched me, literally the first moment, I knew that it was going to be goo-oo-ood. There is a fine line, a perfect balance between pain and pleasure and this woman was a master of the balance. It was painfu
l enough to work out everything that needed to be worked out but not so painful that I couldn't bear it (although it came close a couple of times). It was pleasurable enough that I enjoyed every moment of it, yet it wasn't too soft and soothing as to be ineffective. She had a way of finding my trouble spots all on her own and knowing where to spend a little extra time. She kneaded, pulled, pushed, twisted, rubbed, cracked and massaged. And when she was done, I felt more 
pliable, more relaxed and more reborn than I can remember. We're totally going back.
l enough to work out everything that needed to be worked out but not so painful that I couldn't bear it (although it came close a couple of times). It was pleasurable enough that I enjoyed every moment of it, yet it wasn't too soft and soothing as to be ineffective. She had a way of finding my trouble spots all on her own and knowing where to spend a little extra time. She kneaded, pulled, pushed, twisted, rubbed, cracked and massaged. And when she was done, I felt more 
pliable, more relaxed and more reborn than I can remember. We're totally going back. Afterwards we just so happened to stumble along the Saturday night walking market. There were selling lots of things but nothing more so than stand after stand of homemade, authentic Thai street food. We sampled some delish things, thinking that would be our dinner. But then on our way back out of town we stumbled upon a whole, entire food market. Okay, twist our arms to eat some more Thai deliciousness. 
Needless to say, we weren't up for the walk back to our hostel and happily shelled out the dough for a cab. We came back and hung out for a bit with Tom (one of the chill Thai guys that works at our place) before spending the rest of the evening playing cards by the water, laughing hysterically and, ultimately, going for a midnight swim under the full moon and laughing ourselves to tears trading funny stories about ourselves with each other. Not sure it gets much better.
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